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Summaries of horse related articles:
by Rob Daniels
At the lowest levels, dressage tests are very simple, with the emphasis on basic training. If you make your horse move forward, or stop, you have performed dressage movements.
The history of dressage starts with the ancient Greeks where dressage was practiced in preperation for war. Later it evolved both in the military world and in European circles. The first real competitions were held as early as in 1806 to test the ability of cavalry officers.
Types of dressage horses
Any horse breed is acceptable for dressage although warmbloods and thoroughbreds are prefered. A good dressage horse combines athleticism, superb dispositions, great heart and soundness.
Competition dressage
Similar to figure skating, dressage tests require movements and gaits to be performed in certain sequences. Competitive dressage is designed to show the horse carrying out, on request, the natural movements that it performs without thinking while running loose. At the more advanced levels, horses and riders have usually begun to specialize in dressage competition as a separate discipline.
Arena
The standard arena is 20 m by 60 m, and is used for upper-level tests in both dressage and eventing. The small arena is 20 m by 40 m, and is used for the lower levels of dressage and three-day eventing dressage.
The main goal of dressage is to restore the horses naturalness under a rider, and to create an alert, supple and responsive animal.
Read the full article on Riding Stable
By Kim Prince
Do you recognise yourself in following situations:
- Do you bent your horse to collect him?
- Do you perform endless dressage-type lateral work: shoulder-in, shoulder-out, ... to 'get' to your horses mouth?
- When you try to collect on course, does your horse stick his head up or does he fall behind your leg?
- Do you use little leg at the beginning of a course to avoid having 'to much' horse at the end?
On course you can't always first bend your horses body or head to collect him. You should train your horse to to flex and collect by going forward and back on mostly straight lines. The "straight-horse adjustability program" of Kim Prince relies on:
- straight lines and figures like serpentines and big--not "overbent"--circles
- immediate responsiveness from your leg into your hand (and in the long run, it'll give you a better jump)
- support of the outside rein (I've often said that, in my teaching, I could use a recording of my voice saying, "Hold the outside rein, hold the outside rein, hold the outside rein." As you school, imagine that tape playing)
- transitions within gaits (such as collected trot to lengthened trot and back again) and between gaits (canter to trot is my favorite and the one I'll show you here)
- counter-canter, once of the most useful exercises I know, because it makes you take hold of both reins and use leg in a way that seems acceptable to even the hottest horse.
Read the full article including a series of pictures with explanations on Equisearch.com.
by Ron Meredith
Many people use training methods which are based on a series of attacks on the horse. In this article Ron explains that to train a horse you should use mental strength instead of physical strength.
When working with horses you must realize that they are prey animals. Horses observe our actions and decide if it is safe to stay put or safer to flee. So from a horse logic point of view you do not want your horse to see you as an attacking predator but as a member of the herd. Your next task is to be in control of your horse. In the herd it is not the stallion that controls the herd but the lead mare. You can use body language to make sure your horse accepts you as the lead mare, first on the ground and later under the saddle.
Read the full article on the website of Ron and Faith Meredith
By Rob Daniels
Herd mentality
It is important to keep a quiet profile around horses because in the wild their survival depends on detection of predators with their hearing. Many horses can get startled easily from abrupt noises and this could result in injury to the horse, the rider, or people around the horse. Talk to your horse in a quiet, reassuring voice.
Relationship with Horses
A healthy relationship with your horse requires trust, coupled with respect, fondness with compliance, and a desire to please.
Check your Horse
Examine your horse every day. Catching problems before they become serious is critical to keeping a show horse sound and alive. Extra caution is required around stallions and mares in heat. Tey are dealing with hormones on an order of magnitude that you probably can not comprehend.
Grooming Horses
Keep your horse clean. A number of different problems can result if a horse's coat or feet are not kept clean.
Barn Care
Clean you horse's stall every day an make sure your horse always has clean, fresh water available.
Training a Horse
A kind but firm trainer will result in a disciplined but pleasing horse.
Horse Feed
Feed your horses at the same times every day. Drastic changes in a horse's feed program can cause the horse to colic. Pay attention to everything that goes into your horse: feed, hay, water, treats, supplements, pills, shots, ... Your horses health and soundness depends on the nutrition that you provide for them.
Vet Care
A good vet will save you mondy in the long run and may save your horse's life some day. Every horse should be wormed by a vet at least twice a year.
Horse Flies
In the summer spray your horse trailer down with fly spray about 10 minutes before you load. The flies should leave and your horses will be without those pesky flies!
Cooling Horses
Never spray a hot, sweaty horse with cold water immediately after working the horse. Always walk the horse until the horse is cooled out and the breathing is normal.
Shoeing
Bad shoeing can ruin a good horse so make sure that you have a good farrier, especially if you show your horse over jumps. The consussion from landing from jumps amplifies any problems in a horse's shoeing.
Sleeping
Horses do lay down to sleep, but only if they feel completely comfortable in their environment. Horses will often sleep standing up by locking their knees and they are onf of the few animals that can put one half of their body asleep while the other half is wide awake.
Read the full article on American Horse Care .com
By Walter Berger
Care of Mare up to start of 9th month of pregnancy
- The mare must have access to good quality grazing, with clean water and shelter available in the paddock.
- The mare should receive regular, light exercise.
- If the mare appears to be loosing condition, supplementary feeding should be started.
- The worming program has to continue on a regular basis
Care of Mare from 9th month of pregancy to foaling
- Obviously quality grazing and clean water remain important but also good and safe fencing. The paddock thould be easily supervised and have lights. A good alternative is a foaling box, it should be a minimum of 4 x 8 meters with clean straw bedding.
- The mare should be allowed to exercise herself in the paddock, but should not be ridden aside from that.
- From 9 months on supplementary feeding will need to be started.
- The worming program has to continue on a regular basis. A month before foaling a tetanus and strangles booster should be given to the mare.
Foaling
- Teats fill 4 to 6 days before foaling. A sign of foaling within 2 to 4 days may be the development of a waxy secretion on the teats. This may drop of within 24 hours of foaling.
- As foaling often happens at night a foaling alarm may be useful. As foaling often happens at night a foaling alarm may be useful.
- Signs of first stage labour may be frequent urination, pain characterised by flank watching, sweating, anxiousness and lying down.
- At the start of the second stage the mare is usually lying down. In a normal delivery the first thing to be delivered through the vulva is a shiny white membrane.
- After further straining on the mare's part both front legs and the head will be totally outside the mare.
- The mare will turn to lick the foal within 5 to 10 minutes.
- The umbilical stump should be painted with an iodine solution to prevent any infection.
- The afterbirth should be expelled naturally by the mare within 30 minutes to 3 hours.
- This is the last stage of birth. Before the foal suckles, the mare's udder should be washed with warm water and mild soap. All soap must be removed from the udder.
Read the full article on HorseOz
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